Lundy Pt 2 - August 16th - Devils Slide

We had spent the previous day  wandering round the island as we were unable to climb due to high winds. Lundy is basically a large plug of granite so the west side gets all the weather coming in off the Atlantic while the more sheltered east side has small trees and bushes that stop once they reach the level of the island plateau. I think Lundy is a beautiful island but I accept that some people might consider it a bit bleak. I love bleakness, I love the way you are forced to look for subtle signs of beauty. The way the light changes and colours the rolling hills, tiny flowers, lichen colours, rock formations,  wind moving the grass and the shapes created by dry stone walls on the landscape. But Lundy is also lucky in that it has a spectacular coast line, you could argue that once you've seen one sea cliff you have seen them all but as climbers we are able to see it and explore it in a way that many other visitors to the island miss out on.

The Devils Slide is probably the most spectacular feature on the island and one which is begging to be climbed. To view it closely involves scrambling down a treacherous grassy slope, a route rarely taken by those not intending to climb. From above it is a 117 metre featureless slope at an angle that seems impossible to climb given the lack of apparent holds. However once you abseil down to sea level and safely deposit yourself on a large rock (only at low tide) the angle becomes more friendly. The rock also shows its true self and small dints, pockets, dimples, crystals, cracks and breaks become apparent.

Again, the beauty of Lundy is only revealed upon closer inspection. As you leave the comfort of the belay rock a knobble of sharp granite appears, a finger pocket comes where there are no other hand holds, a tiny blind crack accepts a tiny micro wire that gives you the confidence to carry on, everything where you need it if only you can take the time to look and find it. The second pitch follows with more of the same and the abseil point is reached again. Up to this point its the easiest HS I've ever been on, its probably easier than a lot of Severe's I've been on. Pitch three is where it gets interesting and it was my lead. The angle gets steeper, the holds become less hold like and more sloping rock like and most importantly the gear disappears. Even the belay isn't obvious but thankfully the other team in our party had knowledge of a thread and had left it in situ for me as I'm not sure I could have  spotted it other wise. Looking down from my belay I spotted another team following us and I said "smile!" and waited to take a photo. He didn't smile, in fact he looked down right unhappy, latter confirmed in the pub when he said "I really didn't feel like smiling at that point" (Note - you will see EVERYONE in the pub later, there's no where else to go and its the hub of the island which is why it never closes)

Then comes the fourth pitch which the guidebook describes as 'delicate' using language in a way that only guide books can. See also 'bold', 'exciting' and 'exposed'. It has a reputation as being protection-less but there are two pieces of gear if you look and are able to hang around in a 'delicate' spot long to enough to spot it and place it. The short pitch is indeed delicate with one bold move from a small finger pocket. The final pitch is a romping scramble up easy ground.

When we had all regrouped a few hours later we noticed that the rising tide had grabbed the abseil rope and snagged it around a rock. The next day we returned in the foulest weather and an unlucky volunteer had to ab down another rope, attempt to release it (it couldn't be released and had to be cut) then climb back up the first two pitches of the route with rain bouncing so hard it had formed a two foot 'mist' across the rock surface. A cautionary tale for us all.
Other fitter teams did Albion, a magnificent looking VS at the side of the devils slide slab

When we returned to rescue the ab rope I took the opportunity to scatter some of my Dads ashes. He had always wanted to climb and the magazines that he bought and I read were the main inspiration to the start of my climbing career. We would joke that he lived a vicariously as a climber through me and the photos I shared with him. One day I took him a copy of the reissued Classic Rock and he stopped at the page that featured The Devils Slide. He had a climbers appreciation of a 'good line' and said "bloody hell, look at that. You must go and do that route for me". Well I did Dad and I can't think of a better place to spread your ashes.

Lundy - August 14th - 18th

My first trip to Lundy began with a night on Ilfracombe harbour in a camper van to ensure we were there in time to catch the 10am boat. The local youths doing handbrake turns around our van until 3am meant we had little sleep but luckily the travel sickness pills I took made me nod off during the 2 hour journey and I arrived on the island as fresh as anyone who had been suffering from whooping cough for the previous three weeks could. While I was awake on the boat I occupied myself by gazing out to sea in order to avoid seeing almost everyone around me throwing up. Whenever I turned into the boat I was faced with yet another person retching into a handily provided sick bag.

Once the tractor had dropped off our luggage at the campsite, we set up our tent, had a bite to eat and geared up. We headed towards the Battery, built in 1869 to supplement the Old Light and warn ships in bad weather by firing two large cannons which are still there.

 An abseil down to the boiling sea, then we perched on a small rock and set off up Battery Rib, a V Diff. The rock was the roughest rock I've ever climbed on (and I've climbed on Skye!) with amazingly positive foot placements even where no holds appear to exist.

By this time our stomachs were rumbling and the pub was calling so we headed back to the campsite, showered and went to the excellent Marisco Tavern was a pint of Old Light and a delicious meal. We went to bed a t 9.30. Sea air, eh?

A Tale of Two Trousers

Last year I needed a pair of basic trousers for climbing and walking, they didn't need to be highly technical as they were mainly for climbing at the wall, instructing and doing gentle low level walks. I bought a pair of men's Regatta Geo Extol for £20 from Go Outdoors. Bargain
Earlier this year I decided I needed a pair of proper technical climbing trousers that would be ok on summer  mountain routes with a bit of wind resistance and quick drying. When I saw a pair of Haglofs Mid Q Trail pants reduced from £80 to £40 I quickly snapped them up.

Since I've had time to wear both of these I thought it would be interesting to compare them and see if you really do 'get what you pay for'. Firstly - sizing - I bought the mens Regatta trousers as wasn't exactly at my racing weight and outdoor manufacturers seem to think that anyone over a size 14 will be unable to stand up out of an armchair,although to be fair to Regatta they do go up to an 18. Then I lost weight so I was able to to squeeze into the largest size that Haglofs do in their womens Q range. I would say they are a 14 - 16 depending on your body shape.

The Regatta trousers are made of a stretchy material which is quite thick and stiff meaning they are warm enough for Spring or Autumn but perhaps too much for a hot summers day. They do have handy thigh vents which I like for uphill treks and find they give a bit more leg movement for climbing if they are opened. The cut is basic and quite boxy - the knees have articulated seams but there is no diamond gusset (stop sniggering at the back). There are two front pockets with one zipped pocket inside the right hand pocket and one zipped rear pocket. The waist has a zip and button which is good as I hate waist popper finding that they 'pop' at inconvenient moments. There are belt loops and two elasticated side bits. Despite this I found that they were too loose just around the waistband despite fitting snugly else where meaning that I have to wear a belt to keep them up. This is unusual because they fitted nice around they thigh and bum and the waist is normally the one area where the fit so too tight. Wearing them with a belt causes the elastic bits to dig and become irritating  after a couple of hours wear particularly under a climbing harness.  They are fine for climbing and walking, they dry quickly and you can move freely in them.  I think they are amazing value for £20 and would recommend them  to anyone wanting an all day trouser to wear most of the year in the hills.

The Haglofs are cut with a more casual styling and don't make you look like a rambler, something that may or not bother you. The material is cotton soft but doesn't have much 'give' in it. It is quick drying and nicely wind resistant though. The cut is flattering and slim fitting around the waist, bum and thighs with a low rise waist and a diamond gusset. I know many women hate high waist trousers - they are unflattering and unfashionable - but they are comfortable and help keep all your layers tucked in and in order when you are climbing with a harness on. Anyway, the Haglofs look cool. The knees are shaped and there are elasticated drawcords on the bottom of the legs  All the seams are double stitched unlike the Regattas and there are small hexagonal rivets  on a few of the seams, I'm not convinced they have a practical purpose other than  emphasising the 'jeans' styling.  The fit is very weight critical for me unfortunately, if my weight rises by a couple of pounds they get very tight around the bum and waist and the zip fly works it way down. I also have to wear a belt with these (I do with most trousers to be fair) but mainly to stop them folding over at the top. Luckily the jeans style metal button seems to be very sturdy.  I don't have particularly big hips or thighs but  due to the slim cut and non-stretch fabric they are very restrictive for climbing. I'm not sure how someone who was slimmer than me but with a more curvaceous figure would get one with these.


So - yes the quality of the Haglofs shows through but they are much more expensive than the Regatta ones so you would expect it. More thought has been given to the cut, manufacturing and style. But they aren't that great for climbing in due to the stylish cut so are they any better then the Regatta one? I'm hoping to lose more weight then perhaps they will allow more movement. To answer the original question, yes, you do get what you pay for but may sure you're paying for what you need otherwise you are wasting your money.

  

Wilderness Gully

After a week of watching updates on UKC and following the forecast I managed to get up to Dovestones to try Wilderness Gully. The problem with WG is that when its in condition the roads are usually too bad to actually get near it. A bit of snow followed by a week or so of below zero tempertures meant that it was iced up but still possible to get there.

The forecast for Sunday was for the temperature to rise to 6c but it was below freezing up to Saturday night so that meant an early start. We met in the car park at 9am, not really an early start by Scottish winter standards but it was too early for the butty van that is usually in the car park! We set off with a brisk walk up the track and as we turned the corner we could see both of the Gullies (East and West) were in condition. West gully was only iced up from half way but East gully was covered in ice right from the bottom.

We set off up the thick ice of Wilderness East, each short pitch needing concentration but easy enough to solo. As we neared the top the ice was noticably softer and begining to melt. underneath each pitch was a pile of debris and the route had obviously seen a lot of traffic. The last step required some desperate axe bashing to get a good placement with great big sheets of ice levering off the rock from many of the attempted whacks. Eventually we reached the top, water was pouring down under the ice and we ruled out a return to the bottom for the West gully.

we quickly walked back to the car park as the clag decended further down the hill side. I was back home by 1.30pm - you dont get that kind of civillised time with Scottish winter either!

Lets start again - reflecting on the year

2011 has been an odd year and a very trying year. In terms of climbing the oddness and trying side have resulted in me not spending enough time climbing. Health and free time problems have left me fat and unfit.
On the plus side Ive recently passed my CWA assesment meaning that I can now work as an indoor instructor.
So... I feel like I need to start again from the bottom. Obviously I havent forgotten how to climb but I've lost my leading head inside and out, I lack stamina and I feel weak. My first priority is to loose weight. I joined a gym and tried to do assisted pull-up but I was so bad at them that I enroled a personal trainer to help me get fit, lose weight and get strong. My first goal is to get ready for the winter climbing season which will hopefully start very soon.
Progress has been good but slow, I've lost around a stone from when I was at my biggest in the summer but I need to lose at least another stone. I can run for 20 minutes and I'm starting to look more muscular. It hasnt really made an impact on my climbing mainly because I havent had chance to let it take effect and recruit my new muscle. Although i did reach a point where I couldnt lead at all so there has been some progress.

My climbing goals at the moment is to start leading Fr5 at the wall, Im ok at Fr 4 and 4+ (big wow, right?) and need to start trying the 5s.

plan for the next month - loose weight (get under 13 stone) and attempt pull ups.
Climbing - lead Fr5 and climb more than once a week

watch this space

Cairngorms - beautiful but dangerous!

The Cairngorms have been grim for most of the week but yesterday was the first day of beautiful sunshine. After a solo of Cinderella on Meggie on Saturday I havent had the crampons on due to the rubbish weather and the avalanche risk.
At the top of Cinderella we found a massive cornice, the route has a reputation for avalanches so it was a bit unnvering. Even more so when we got back to the hut to find someone had been taken by helicopter to Inverness hospital following an avalanche on the Goat Track. Other reports of incidents came through so Sunday was spent on mountain bikes round Rothiemurchus forest - great fun!
So Thursday was the first beautiful day, we walked up Cairngorn to find the ski centre RAMMED. The snow was crisp and icy, the wind had died down and everything looked god for the weekend. Today has been rubbish again though :(
I spend a week in February in Scotland every year and I've always been lucky with the weather but I suppose it was bound to break *sigh*

Packing for Scotland!

Heres my attempt at being organised and making sure I don't forget anything. Packing for a trip to Aviemore, need climbing and walking gear plus photography stuff. As usual I have bought new kit - arcteryx baselayer, Patagonia back country guide pants.